handtomouth

I am still perplexed at the popularity of this poser called viognier in the Cape. Just today I tried it again in the guise of the Graham Beck and am continually disappointed. Sure, it’s bold and fruity, sure it has big florals, but what else? It’s a real tease, and I am even more opposed to it in all its shiraz marriages. It’s a cheap frillip, used to lift the red fruit in the face of what must be a lack of good shiraz. It dilutes the primal flavours, replacing with soft, peachy, easy notes. Part of the problem is that we seem to use it at full and pretty alcoholic ripeness, winemakers tell me this is when it’s at its best. I say it’s at its best as a minute part of a blend, or not at all. (Try Joostenberg’s Fairhead, or the new Scali White.)