Curiously, greater Cape Town has two restaurants that borrow this name from the depths of history. They differ subtly in how they spell it, and vastly in what they do with it. Beltha is full of brash confidence and branded merchandise (not only the patrons), while Belta, situated as it is in Muizenberg, would rarely be a stomping ground for the flash or upwardly flush.
Yesterday I had the interesting experience of eating at both, Belta for lunch and Beltha for dinner. Muizenberg’s Belta is a wonderful neighbourhood spot in all the right ways. Intimate, warm, honest and run by an owner-chef. He’s a misplaced German who cooks meaty meals with obvious care – you only have to try his spatzle to understand. Often oily, soggy worms of paste, his spatzle are fresh and light. You even get whole steamed gem squash as a side vegetable.
Beltha is in the Waterfront, which explains a great deal. They have certain gods to appease, not least the hungry landlord. It’s a good thing then that they serve big steaks and fine wine in glasses “as big as your head” as they say. It’s a steakhouse of the most sophisticated sort, and I have to say that the cuts are good, and the fries are great. I do struggle with the character of the place, it feels in the end that the first priciple is to take all your money.
At Belta it feels like you and your money have further to go. But more than that, that real care is the currency.
With an h: 021 421-3753
without the h: 021 788-4912
0 Responses to “Belthazar or Beltazar?”