It’s the first column for the new year, so why not a recap of some of the memorable wines of 2006? Sauvignon blanc is slowly finding a route to my palate now that the freakishly racy examples are being replaced with delicious nettly, full-bodied wines – that still retain enough freshness for anyone’s desire. The fruit expression is better, and these are standouts: Diemersdal Single Vineyard 2006 and Cape Point 2006 (and sauvignon nuts owe it to themselves to also try the Cape Point Isliedh 2005, with some barrel notes).
Chenin blanc is becoming a stronger and stronger category, at the top end De Trafford’s 2006 is a luxurious masterpiece, while the Raats Family make two standouts – the Original 2006, which is fresh and deliciously fruity and the Chenin Blanc 2005 (with some wooding) is wowing drinkers and judges around the globe. Then also check Joostenberg’s Chenin-Viognier 2006 for a successful yoking of viognier’s exuberance.
Rustenberg have been toying with Roussanne for a few years and I like the 2005 as an alternative white, full and rich, and a formidable food companion. White blends have been gathering more and more interest amongst wine lovers, Sadie Family’s Palladius 2005 is a splurge but worth it – other notable white blends included Scali Blanc 2005 (it sold out, so watch for the 2006); the Nicolas van der Merwe Sauvignon bland-Semillon 2005; and the superb Quoin Rock Oculus 2004, a secret blend of whites.
Never forget our chardonnay specialists – when I recently tried a Dewetshof D’Honneur Chardonnay 1993 I was mightily impressed by how creamy and rich the palate still was. A newcomer to this category and well worth keeping track of is Ataraxia, the 2005 is a wonderfully taut wine that lingers on the palate and in the mind like a late January sunset.
Alternative reds begin with the eminently drinkable Welgegund Carignan 2004 (and check their rosé) and the Idiom Sangiovese 2004, both showing how fruitful forays into varieties other than the mainstream can be. Our recent examples of wines made from grenache, mourvèdre, carignan and the Italian sangiovese all show great promise – even more so when we blend. One of the finest blends I tasted this year is the Fairview Caldera 2004, with grenache, mourvèdre and shiraz all harmonised for intriguing, deep satisfaction that doesn’t plumb for porty ripeness and over-worked fruit (still the bane of so many of our shirazes).
Look out for the rise of Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards. The wines are dear, but they are classically-constructed and intense. The farm is also moving purposefully along an organic path, which should not only be celebrated for the good it does for the environment, but also because this is the only proper way you can begin to explore site specific wines.
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