handtomouth » More than a sip

A few bottles

JPR — Mon, 11 Sep 2006 19:01:29 +0000

As is the case with names from SA’s yesteryears, it is often with surprise that I drink a really good bottle. There’s no doubt that these names can make good wines, or reason they can’t, it’s just that the surge in new, sexier labels has put them largely in the shadows, especially on the shelves. So it was with the La Motte Chardonnay 2004 that I enjoyed with a roast chicken and polenta lunch. A good balance of oak and freshness make this a fine drink, and one that stays interesting over the whole bottle.

A bottle that started murky and too clumsy for me, but then pulled itself into fine shape was the 2001 Graham Beck “The Ridge” Syrah. With bold fruits and wood, they clearly make this wine to age, and after five years it can still wait a while longer. One of those times that I was glad to have resisted opening on release, the wine was finessed enough to have a few people guessing it was cooler climate shiraz.

Speaking of cooler climates, a quick taste-off of a number of sauvignons yesterday with some winemakers showed that it really is hard to pick the warmer climes from the cooler ones in the bottle. A Doolhof 2006 (from “warm” Wellington) was picked as a cool region, simply making the point that generalisation is dangerous, for pockets that subvert the norm exist – and modern methods of winemaking/choice of yeast/barrel can shape the wines’ character so powerfully.

A provocative question: Until all wineries really are reflecting site, it is almost foolish to talk regionality?

Dr Unger Kremstal Gruner Veltliner 2004

JPR — Mon, 24 Jul 2006 09:28:28 +0000

Superb wine, mineral sea nose and immense structure, wonderfully poised. I know this is the wine wonk’s favourite white variety, am I one of them too? Wines like these could get me there.

Vina Progreso Tannat Reserve 2002

JPR — Sat, 22 Jul 2006 09:27:57 +0000

Another Chilean, a joint venture with a French family. Great structure (tannin, appropriately) and freshness, some earthiness and one could even talk about minerality. A variety that would be welcome in South Arica, where I believe there are a few experimental plantings.

Bodegas Carrau Sauvignon Blanc “Sur Lie” 2005

JPR — Thu, 20 Jul 2006 09:27:12 +0000

Tasted blind, thought it was a European light white, not unlike pinot grigio. Very light in palate, loads of tropical fruit, even pineapple. Very short palate. Turned out to be a Chilean sauvignon that’s been left on the lees for six months. Can only imagine the lack-lustre juice that it began as.

Miles Mossop Max 2004

JPR — Tue, 18 Jul 2006 09:26:34 +0000

An accomplished wine, rich and pleasing. Cab sav, merlot and 21% petit verdot. Modern in style, with well-handled tannin and good fruit. My only reservation is the interrupt between what the wine is and what it claims to be on the back label – idiosyncratic and somewhat maverick.

Stellenzicht Rhapsody 2003

JPR — Sun, 16 Jul 2006 09:25:49 +0000

Never heard of this wine before it was introduced to me as the winemaker’s dream of a pinotage blend. Apparently the winemaker is very proud of this near 50/50 pinotage/shiraz, I found that the pairing (at this ratio) seemed to have the effect of one cancelling the other out. Very short, dusty, a bit earthy. Rhapsody in Blue?

Sterhuis Chardonnay 2004

JPR — Fri, 14 Jul 2006 09:24:54 +0000

A year after release, this wine is ageing beautifully and tasting great. Certainly in the well-wooded style, but deftly handled. I hear the 2005 did not live up to this superb wine, but I have yet to taste it.

Andreas Shiraz 2004

JPR — Wed, 12 Jul 2006 09:23:13 +0000

The anoraks seem to like this wine at the moment, and it does have very pleasing round and chocolatey notes with a smooth texture. Pleasant enough, even downright charming if not an intensely complex wine.

Haute Espoir Semillon 2005

JPR — Mon, 10 Jul 2006 09:23:10 +0000

I don’t have vast experience with this winery, and I believe I am already in trouble with them for being less than amazed, but a glass of this wine again failed to make much of an impression. I’ll leave it there.

Wildekrans Cabernet Franc-Merlot 2004

JPR — Wed, 05 Jul 2006 09:58:43 +0000

In the June issue of our local Wine magazine an article on Morgenster, the prize olive oil and wine estate on the Helderberg ends by posing the question of whether they would consider making the estate blend a cabernet franc-cabernet sauvignon wine, and do away with the merlot, a variety that their superstar consultant, Pierre Lurton, of Cheval Blanc and Yquem fame, thinks does not really feature well in the Cape.

Interesting. Not having access to an immediate bottle of Morgenster Estate (since this was top of mind), I opened a bottle of another wine that did rather well (considering its price) in the same magazine’s cabernet franc roundup – Wildekrans Cab Franc-Merlot 2004. I am a cab franc fan, I have to say, the leaner, more spicy notes of this cab compared to its big relative, cab sauvignon, appeal to me. On this wine, I didn’t find much of the hoped-for joy though, it was closed and dull, with a woodiness that only later led to a maderised flavour that I thought may have something to do with a highish VA. I don’t think merlot is the culprit here, and my interest in cabernet franc and its blends is certainly unabated, notwithstanding this setback.