In the June issue of our local Wine magazine an article on Morgenster, the prize olive oil and wine estate on the Helderberg ends by posing the question of whether they would consider making the estate blend a cabernet franc-cabernet sauvignon wine, and do away with the merlot, a variety that their superstar consultant, Pierre Lurton, of Cheval Blanc and Yquem fame, thinks does not really feature well in the Cape.
Interesting. Not having access to an immediate bottle of Morgenster Estate (since this was top of mind), I opened a bottle of another wine that did rather well (considering its price) in the same magazine’s cabernet franc roundup – Wildekrans Cab Franc-Merlot 2004. I am a cab franc fan, I have to say, the leaner, more spicy notes of this cab compared to its big relative, cab sauvignon, appeal to me. On this wine, I didn’t find much of the hoped-for joy though, it was closed and dull, with a woodiness that only later led to a maderised flavour that I thought may have something to do with a highish VA. I don’t think merlot is the culprit here, and my interest in cabernet franc and its blends is certainly unabated, notwithstanding this setback.